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Paul Hitchcock

A (relatively) new star in town

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As a restaurant town, Cherbourg has been quietly on the up. From having nowhere at all recommended in Michelin there are now no fewer than five nowadays as well as the more everyday but still satisfactory places such as the Brasserie du Commerce.

 

The great news is that, for the first time ever, the town has a starred establishment in the form of Le Pily at 39 Rue Grande Rue. It gained this recognition in 2010, barely two years after opening.

 

A mid-week lunchtime "formule" enables the talents of the masterly M. Pierre Marion to be sampled for a relatively reasonable sum. As it is a formule, rather than a special cheap menu, lunch patrons fare particularly well. It is a small place of less than 25 covers so you will be sampling the actual work of Le Patron which is unusual for places of this standing. Mine was, I think, the meal of a lifetime. As might be expected this is "cuisine moderne" rather than "classique".

 

It is never open mid-day on Saturdays but it is best to check actual opening times either on www.le-pily.com or by telephoning 02 33 10 19 29. With a place this small it is always wise to book beforehand.

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Re: A (relatively) new star in town

 

Le Pily has retained it's star which is absolutely no surprise! Le Vauban, which I have never tried, now has a "Bib Gourmande" to join the Cafe de Paris, which I have (it's fine). A few years ago Cherbourg had nowhere mentioned in Michelin. Now it has five of which no less than three have distinctions. Things are known to get better!:D

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